olekolua 2025 1st tenth day of Makahiki niiilio

I cannot faith in position theory.

I blast Garbage Man in my pretty little full size Tundr.  She handle the curves fine.  SOmetimes i gotta rev it up while braking at low speed until i pull off all the do-dods and metal pipe ex-gas-recirc plumbing bolted on her valve covers.

a slow tourist sedan stalls infront of guardshak
sherman sits
I crawl up and transcend abeam of it all.
I hollow. HOzit Sherman.  He brightens.  Go Braddah, GO! I woulda blazed faster but humored the retard to my side to advance in towards the parklot.  They can't decide.  They pull in to one, splitting the car space.  think better of it.  pull out.  i just wait and chuckling my head.  i take the spot they leave.  i'm pretty pumped.  keep the tunes politely exuding my ambiance which i kinda need to prep and control my surrounding.

In the land of far.  No signal.  Just spirits.  An Aussie runner in red swim top and red board shorts jogs on.

I was going to go for five waves on on the regular short board, 6'1.  But after four waves I kept thinking about your board, the green machine.  I paddle in, which is pretty fun since the tide is high and the wedgy runners run nearly to shore at half a foot high.  I have caught one wave.
You tell me.  Tell me what you think I ought to do.
Well, you know I think.
Good point.  I will catch three waves, which is two more.
ok.
ok, can you tell me at each moment.  Advice, but in the short term, play-by-play since I am going to catch three waves on 
ok
so two more
got it
this one?
obviously not.
next one?
we'll see.

i get two more.  both from half shoulder.  next year i will go closer to the top